Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Options

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Point collar or spread? Placket or none? What type of back pleat do you want? All the terminology and options can be intimidating when ordering your first custom shirt. During your style consultation and fitting our tailors will help you design a shirt that’s perfect just for you. Until you book an appointment, read our guide to help familiarize yourself with which options are right for your style.

Shirts are more intimate than your suits: quite literally they touch your skin and fit close to the body. 

Every man should have multiple white and blue shirts in their wardrobe along with a variety of colored, patterned or textured shirts to make their outfits more visually interesting. 

Bold colors and patterns breath life into staid business suits and let your personality or the seasonality of your outfit shine through. 


We recommend our Classic Spread Collar for most men. We also offer our spread collar shirts in Medium and Wide widths.

Semi Spread

Classic Spread

Wide Spread

The Classic Straight point collar is a good look if you have a more narrow or oval face. Narrow Straight collars are available if you want to look like the cast of Goodfellas.

The Button Down Collar is an Ivy touch and can also be useful on more casual shirts to keep your collar upright without a tie. We also have a Hidden Button Collar.

The Club Collar, with its rounded collar points, is a rakish look currently making a comeback.

Band Collars are give off a rock and roll or East-meets-West look and are great if you’re in a band or a Bond villain.

Finally, we have the very formal Wing Tip collar for all of your finest white tie events.

Point Collar

Button Down Collar

Club Collar


The Barrel Cuff is our standard button closure shirt cuff with one, two or three buttons — we recommend one or two. Barrel Cuffs come with your preference of square, rounded or angled front edges. Rounded cuffs look a bit more casual to us, but there are no rules here.

The French Cuff, secured with cufflinks, is the most formal men’s shirt cuff. The rear portion of the cuff can be made with square, rounded or angled edges. 

The Portofino Cuff, also known as the Cocktail Cuff, was favored by Sean Connery’s James Bond. It has the jaunty, turned back cuff without the fussy cufflinks required.


Our shirts come standard with a Plain front, one whose button closures are sewn directly into the front of the shirt.

A placket is an additional piece of fabric stitched over the button closures which gives more interest to the shirt front. Plackets with twin buttons are available for the bold.

For a sleek, modern look try the Hidden Button style placket.

We offer tuxedo shirts with pleats or bibs.


Plain backs are the most elegant shirt yoke and offer great range of motion in our custom fitted men’s does shirts. A Split Yoke gives your upper shoulders a little more room while keeping fabric to a minimum.

The box pleat is the most roomy shirt back and is commonly found in casual shirts like the Oxford Cloth Button Down. Two side pleats offer similar mobility with a more elegant look.

We also offer a shirt with two rear middle darts, but this stitch is usually used to fit a baggier shirt and is unnecessary on a custom shirt.


Box Pleat

Two Side Pleats


Our shirts come standard with a Sweep style bottom, designed with extra fabric in the front and back to keep your shirt tucked in.

Opt for a straight cut in a shorter length for your more casual shirts designed to be worn untucked.

We also offer a straight cut with side slits.


Our shirts come standard with thick Mother of Pearl buttons. We also offer thin, square or black mother of pearl alongside resin buttons in a dozen colors including ivory, brown, blue, grey, pink, purple and more.





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